How To Hand Sew a Buttonhole: A Perfect Step-by-Step Guide

As an inexperienced sewer, you can experience a moment of fear if the project you are working on requires you to sew a button closure. The process of sewing buttonholes can be a little more challenging than sewing buttons, particularly with regard to the size and alignment of the buttonholes. There is a buttonhole option on the majority of home sewing machines, which is convenient. On the other hand, if you find that sewing with your machine makes you feel a little bit scared, you always have the option of stitching the buttonhole by hand. By sewing a buttonhole that has been hand-worked, you will gain a better knowledge of the shape, size, and alignment of traditional button closures.

Today’s post will include a demonstration of how to manually sew a buttonhole. I’ll begin by explaining the circumstances in which you might need to manually sew a buttonhole stitch. The majority of our buttonholes are now applied with a sewing machine. This is the case at the moment. What is the point of learning how to do things by hand if that is the case?

For those of you who are unaware, a sewing machine will sew tight, precisely spaced zigzag stitches around the buttonhole with a bar tack at the top and bottom. You can still see a tiny amount of fabric between the zigzag stitches and the point where you clipped the buttonhole open. It is possible that this fabric will fray to some degree over time if you do not purchase a fray check solution.

When a buttonhole is constructed by hand, it is first cut open and then sewn, enclosing the fabric’s raw edge in strong stitches to avoid fraying. So as you can see, sewing a buttonhole by hand is a more preferable choice for your apparel.

Before You Begin

Let me share with you some easy strategies for flawlessly stitching buttonholes by hand:

• Practice on scrap fabric before sewing buttonholes on your project to understand how the cloth reacts.
• Use a single thread to prevent tangling and snagging.
• Consider using double-sided fusible interfacing or fusible web to give rigidity and prevent fabric layers from slipping during hand stitching.
• Pay attention to the density and length of your stitches, and avoid tightening the thread too much to maintain elasticity.
• Choose the proper thread for your cloth; silk thread for light-weight silk fabric and Pearl cotton, embroidery thread #10, or embroidery floss for heavy-weight textiles.
• Sewing buttonholes by hand needs precision and care, so take your time.

Supplies Required

• Fabric: the cloth you want to connect the buttonhole to.
• Interfacing: This provides rigidity to the cloth and is needed for a sturdy buttonhole. The type of interfacing may vary according to your fabric and pattern recommendations.
• Button: The button for which you’ll be constructing the buttonhole. Measure its diameter for correct sizing.
• Thread: Choose a thread that complements your cloth. For buttonhole stitching, you can use either topstitching thread (e.g., Mara 70) for enhanced durability and visibility or standard all-purpose thread in a similar color for a more subtle look.
• Needle:  A sharp sewing needle suitable for your fabric. Make sure it’s compatible with your thread.
• Scissors or Buttonhole Cutter: To cut the buttonhole properly without fraying the fabric.
• Ruler or Seam Gauge: To measure and mark the buttonhole length properly.
• Chalk or Fabric Marker: For marking the buttonhole and guiding your stitching.
• Thimble: An optional tool to protect your finger while pushing the needle through the fabric.
• Tailor’s Awl or Circular Punch (for keyhole buttonholes): If you’re making keyhole-style buttonholes, you’ll need one of these tools to create the circular cut at the keyhole’s end.

Optional Materials

• Iron and Ironing Board: Useful for pressing the cloth and interfacing before and after stitching the buttonhole.
• Thread Conditioner: This can make hand-sewing smoother by minimizing friction between the thread and fabric

Steps to hand sew a buttonhole

Step 1: Prepare your Fabric with Interfacing

Interfacing gives rigidity to the fabric, which is vital for a lasting and professional-looking buttonhole. The interfacing should be applied directly below the planned buttonhole position. It’s vital to follow the pattern’s suggestions for interfacing, since some pattern parts, such as waistbands or button plackets, may already have interfacing in place owing to their function.

Step 2: Measure the Button Diameter

Accurate measuring is crucial to ensure the buttonhole fits the button precisely. To calculate the button’s diameter, you can use a seam gauge, a little instrument particularly created for this purpose. Measuring the button carefully can help you pick the right length for your buttonhole.

Step 3: Mark the Buttonhole

Start by drawing the center line for the buttonhole, using the button’s diameter as the reference length. Additionally, indicate the start and finish locations of the buttonhole with perpendicular lines on each end of the central line. The precision of your marks is vital for a well-finished buttonhole. Depending on the thickness of the button, you may need to extend the center line slightly to allow for smooth button passing.

Step 4: Mark or Stitch the Buttonhole Depth

To guide your buttonhole stitches, mark or sew the buttonhole depth, commonly ranging from 1/16” to ⅛”. A running stitch can be utilized for this purpose. It’s vital to use a single thread of the appropriate color, roughly 25 inches in length, to ensure you have enough thread for an average-sized buttonhole. The thread choice should complement the cloth you’re working with.

Step 5: Cut the Buttonhole

Carefully cut down the center line using sharp scissors or a buttonhole cutter. Take extreme care not to cut past the start and end lines, as this might result in an uneven or untidy buttonhole.

Step 6: Start Buttonhole Stitches

The actual buttonhole sewing begins by pulling the needle up through the backside of your fabric, exiting along the stitching line or the ⅛” marked line. Starting in the center of the buttonhole might be advantageous for sewing. Position the thread to the right and loop it behind and beneath the eye of the needle.

Slide it beneath the needle’s point, tugging it to the right, and bring the needle through the cloth. This method generates a twisted buttonhole stitch near the edge. Continue sewing around the buttonhole, ensuring your needle comes up on the outside of the stitching line to hide the running stitches, and maintaining the buttonhole stitches close together.

Step 7: Shape the Buttonhole Ends

The way you shape the buttonhole ends depends on the style you prefer:

• For a bar tack, use a satin stitch.
• If you desire a more rounded or keyhole-style buttonhole, fan out your threads. For a keyhole buttonhole, make a slightly circular incision at the keyhole’s end before sewing. You can use a tailor’s awl or a specialized circular punch for this purpose.

Step 8: Finish the Buttonhole

Insert the needle into the backside of the fabric and thread it back and forth through the buttonhole’s stitches to secure it and avoid unraveling the fabric. This results in a long-lasting finish.

Carefully trim the thread after it has been secured. You can cut away any running threads that show through the buttonhole stitching or that were overlooked. These blemishes can go undetected in the finished piece if you used similar thread color.

The handcrafted buttonhole is now complete!

It’s helpful to know how to manually stitch a buttonhole. For a simple method of adding fashionable buttonholes to your sewing projects, watch this tutorial video!

Summary

The accuracy and personalization that hand-worked buttonholes provide is what makes them so beautiful. Don’t be afraid to investigate the options for adding a second blanket stitch layer for a more substantial finish that will guarantee longevity and elegance. You can stitch several buttonholes with ease, all precisely aligned, and even try out other sizes and patterns to fit your own projects with a little experience and the knowledge provided here. Now take out your thread and needle and begin making buttonholes that will highlight your skill and attention to detail. Enjoy your stitching!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What materials do I need to hand sew a buttonhole?

Ans. You’ll need a needle, thread that matches your fabric, fabric scissors, a marking tool, and a button for reference.

Q. How do I mark the buttonhole placement on the fabric?

Ans. Use your button as a guide, mark the placement with a disappearing fabric marker, chalk, or pins.

Q. What type of stitch should I use to create a buttonhole?

Ans. Use a buttonhole stitch or a satin stitch for a neat and secure buttonhole. You can also use a blanket stitch for a simpler version.

Q. How long should I make the buttonhole?

Ans. Measure the width of your button, and add about 1/8 inch (3mm) to allow for ease. This is the ideal length for your buttonhole.

Q. How do I reinforce the buttonhole to make it more durable?

Ans. To reinforce, sew a few extra stitches at the beginning and end of the buttonhole, and consider applying a small square of interfacing on the backside.

Q. What’s the best way to secure the thread at the start and end of the buttonhole?

Ans. Knot the thread at the beginning and end of your buttonhole, or simply sew several backstitches to secure the thread.

Q. Should I use a single thread or double thread for sewing the buttonhole?

Ans. It’s recommended to use a double thread for added strength and durability when sewing a buttonhole.

Q. Any tips for a clean and polished finish?

Ans. Trim any excess threads, press the buttonhole with an iron, and if desired, apply a small amount of fray check to prevent fraying.