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This instructional guide aims to demonstrate the process of sewing underwear or panties. The sewing project at hand is rather straightforward and expeditious in nature, but it does present occasional minor challenges that may impede progress, such as the attachment of elastic materials. The next instructional session will provide an overview of several procedures pertaining to sewing with knit fabric, creating patterns based on pre-existing garments, and effectively sewing elastic materials.
I have not previously engaged in the practice of sewing undergarments; nevertheless, I have lately undertaken the task of crafting many pairs of panties for my daughter. I am inclined to share with you the process involved in creating such garments. One may question the rationale behind engaging in the production of undergarments when they can be readily purchased. The solution may be succinctly stated as follows: I have crafted undergarments with fabric composed entirely of silk and organic cotton materials. I would recommend that you use a similar approach.
For this DIY panties tutorial, we’ll needÂ
In order to proceed with this do-it-yourself (DIY) guide on creating panties, the following materials are required:
When selecting a knit fabric, it is recommended to go for materials such as 100% silk jersey or organic cotton, in cases when 100% silk jersey is not readily available. It is imperative that the undergarments provide a high level of comfort for the wearer’s skin. There is a limited availability of fabric retailers that provide 100% silk jerseys. The internet source from which I obtained the information is the website moodfabric.com. Although the cost is quite high, the cloth exhibits exceptional beauty and provides a luxuriously smooth sensation when in contact with the skin.
What is Picot elastic?
Picot elastic refers to a type of elastic trim that features a decorative looped edge.
Picot edge elastic is a type of elastic that is specifically designed for use in underwear, characterized by its softness and thinness. The typical width of the object in question ranges from 4 to 7 millimeters, providing a pleasant experience for the skin. The garment features a beautiful picot edge on the right side, which is intended to be seen, as well as a straight edge that facilitates sewing.
How do you measure the elastic you need for the project?
In order to determine the optimal fit of the panties, I conduct a personal assessment by measuring the circumference of my hips or waist, as well as my leg, in the precise locations where the undergarment will be positioned. By experimenting with various lengths, I aim to identify the most comfortable size that ensures the panties remain securely in place without causing any undue pressure or marking on my skin.
Certain varieties of elastic exhibit more rigidity, necessitating a lesser degree of stretching. Conversely, picot edge elastic, commonly employed in the production of underwear, possesses a softer and thinner composition, hence warranting a more extensive stretching process.
However, caution must be exercised to avoid excessive stretching. It is often recommended to trim the elastic so that it is approximately 1 or 2 inches shorter than the unstretched measures. If one were to adjust the fit of the undergarments, there is a possibility that it may result in the creation of panties that are exceedingly unpleasant. Additionally, it is advisable to incorporate seam allowances to the elastic, approximately measuring 1 cm or 3/8″ on both sides.
The inclusion of a serger in this context is discretionary.
When working with knit fabrics, it is recommended to use either jersey or ballpoint sewing machine needles.
The utilization of threads in matching colors was employed, namely the ELOFLEX thread (for a comprehensive evaluation of this particular thread, please refer to my assessment available here).
Previously worn undergarments (that were personally favored and can be utilized for the purpose of creating a template).
Step 1: Creating an Underwear Pattern
To disassemble the undergarments, begin by removing the elastic trims, followed by cutting the side seams.
It is crucial to fold this fabric in half along its length. In order to create a pattern, it is necessary for the left and right components to be symmetrical.
Proceed by creating a line on a sheet of paper, designating it as both the grain line and the centerline of the pattern.
Position the folded piece of material onto the paper in such a way that the fold aligns with the designated line.
As seen from the visual observation, the previous undergarments exhibited significant deformation, rendering the task of arranging them in a suitable manner challenging. However, I was able to successfully complete the task.
Please proceed to illustrate the pattern. The decision was made to utilize ⅜ inch (1 centimeter) seam allowances. In order to achieve a desired aesthetic, I made an adjustment to the positioning of the panties by increasing their height by one inch, both in the front and rear regions. To get whole pieces, it is necessary to mirror the pattern rather than only using halves. Additionally, it is advisable to cut the fabric in a single layer.
When engaging in the manipulation of knitted fabrics, I personally find it more convenient to abstain from cutting said cloth along the fold.
Various techniques exist for sewing a crotch or gusset, which involves the incorporation of a fabric piece in the crotch area and a lining to reinforce this particular section of the undergarments. I have made the decision to create a distinct pattern component.
Currently, I own three distinct pattern components for the undergarments, including the back, front, and a gusset/crotch component.
Step 2: Involves prewashing the cloth.
This was my initial encounter with utilizing silk jersey fabric composed entirely of silk fibers, specifically for lingerie purposes. Consequently, I deemed it imperative to engage in the prewashing process for the silk fabric. The silk and organic cotton were placed in the washing machine and subjected to a hot water cycle for a brief duration. No specific washing cycle was employed, only a few minutes of exposure to hot water followed by a single rinse. No significant reduction in fabric size was seen.
Step 3: The Process of Pattern Layout on Knit Fabric
Prior to positioning the pattern pieces, it is necessary to identify the grainline.
However, the subject at hand pertains to the method of identifying the grainline on a knitted cloth. The task requires careful execution to achieve success. Alternatively, the seams may become entangled.
Prior to identifying the grainline, it is essential to possess the knowledge of discerning the correct side of the knitted fabric. This is because the grainline is predominantly observable, if faintly, only on the right side of the majority of knitted fabrics, with certain exceptions. Typically, little parallel lines, sometimes referred to as “ribs,” can be observed on the right side of the fabric, running alongside the selvage. The visual representations provided here offer a means of observation.
To begin, carefully position the fabric, ensuring that it is free from any form of deformation and that each individual “rib” is aligned in a perfectly straight manner.
Determine the desired placement of the center line on the fabric and proceed to delineate one of the “ribs” by means of tracing, employing a disappearing ink marker, pins, or basting thread as suitable alternatives.
Once the grainline has been identified, proceed to position the pattern pieces onto the fabric and proceed with cutting: one front piece, one back piece, and two gusset/crotch pieces.
When working with silk fabric, it is advisable to utilize exclusively thin specialized pins that do not create punctures in the fragile material.
Step 4: The next step involves the process of assembling various components by means of stitching.
There exist a total of four seams that need completion, and this task may be accomplished within a just five-minute timeframe with the appropriate instruments.
I have a preference for utilizing a serger machine with two needles and employing four-thread stitches. It is advisable to do a preliminary test on a small piece of fabric prior to commencing the sewing process for the panties. The serger is a sewing machine that simultaneously sews the fabric pieces together and finishes the raw edges, resulting in a tidy and polished appearance.
The utilization of a conventional sewing machine is indeed feasible for working with knitted fabrics; nevertheless, it is imperative to employ certain stitch patterns that preserve the fabric’s elasticity and prevent thread breakage when subjected to stretching. Utilize a distinctive zigzag thread, as visually depicted in the accompanying illustration.
However, while utilizing a conventional sewing machine, it becomes necessary to leave the raw edges of the side seams unfinished.
Furthermore, it is worth noting that the sewing machine has the potential to inadvertently consume the fabric, particularly when working with delicate silk jersey. This phenomenon may be observed when the cloth seemingly vanishes beneath the neck plate. There exist other factors contributing to this occurrence; nonetheless, it is recommended that you verify six specific aspects:
- Was a specialized jersey/ballpoint needle utilized in the process?
- Is the stitch length inadequate for the knitted fabric?
- Was the foot pressure adjusted for thin fabric?
- Have you properly threaded the machine?
- Have you performed the task of cleaning the bobbin case?
- Did you retain the thread tails while commencing the sewing process?
Position the posterior component in an upright orientation along a level plane, then interpose it amongst two gusset/crotch components. The right side of the posterior component aligns with the right side of one of the perineal components, while the right side of another perineal component is attached to the opposite side of the posterior component. Secure all three layers by pinning them together and proceed to sew.
Next, we will proceed to join the crotch sections with the front section.
Position the posterior section amidst the two crotch sections and proceed to insert the anterior section between the two crotch sections, thereafter engaging in the act of stitching.
Inverting the gusset or crotch area will reveal that the seams of the crotch are concealed inside. Apply pressure to these seams in order to provide a smoother appearance.
Once all the individual components have been sewn together, my personal preference is to utilize a 1 needle 3 thread overlock stitch (using my serger) in order to complete the finishing of the raw fabric edges. Additionally, the crotch pieces will be joined together and any excess fabric protruding from the seams will be trimmed.
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However, it should be noted that this is entirely discretionary. I have crafted three pairs of silk panties, specifically intended for my daughter. However, I have only completed the construction of two of them. Consequently, the photographs provided below may exhibit an unfinished state.
Step 5: The Process of Attaching Elastic to Undergarments by Sewing
The process of sewing elastic is rather straightforward and does not require a significant amount of time. However, it is important to note that there exist several methodologies for this task, and certain factors should be taken into account.
To join the ends of elastic, it is recommended to overlap them and employ a closely spaced zigzag stitch to establish a secure connection between the two edges. Carefully remove excess fabric from the seam allowances, trimming them as close as possible to the stitching.
The elastic should be divided into four equal parts, and four marks should be made on the elastic at equal intervals. These marks can be made using pins or a fabric marker, and should be placed at the center front, center rear, and two sides.
Similarly, create four evenly spaced markings on the fabric of the undergarment using either pins or a fabric marker.
Initially, I prefer to affix the elastic to the leg holes.
Starting at a position on the posterior region (just above the pelvic area), align the junction of the elastic with the edge of the fabric, ensuring that the right sides are facing each other. Ensure that the edge of the elastic is in line with the edge of the cloth. Begin by pinning the elastic to the cloth at the four designated spots. Subsequently, insert pins an additional four times inside the intervals defined by the aforementioned four spots.
Next, affix the elastic to the cloth using a conventional sewing machine, utilizing a specialized stretch zigzag stitch. Aim to position the thread close to the picot edge without sewing directly into it. When sewing, apply a modest amount of tension on the elastic material, being careful not to stretch the fabric underneath. It is beneficial to sew at a slower pace for better control.
The accompanying visual representation provides an illustration of the reverse side of the undergarment. The current appearance may lack aesthetic appeal, correct? I successfully produced three pairs with silk jersey fabric, although achieving an optimal seam appearance posed some difficulty. However, the seam will be entirely concealed, rendering it imperceptible. There is no need for concern if the situation is as described.
Fold the elastic linked to the panties towards the other side and secure it with an additional zigzag stitch on the outside surface. Use a 3-step zigzag pattern, with a width of 5 and a length ranging from 1 to 1.5. On my Janome 6600P sewing machine, this corresponds to stitch number 9.
During sewing, maintain a modest tension on the cloth. I consciously divert my gaze away from the needle and focus on the markings present on the presser foot. This deliberate shift in attention helps me produce aesthetically pleasing stitches. Since the stitches will be visible on the exterior of the panties, it is important to maintain their tidiness to the best of your ability.
Repeat this process for each additional leg aperture.
The same elastic can be used for the waistband, necessitating the replication of the aforementioned procedure for the waistband.
Alternatively, you can employ a different elastic material, such as broad lace elastic.
The broad lace elastic was affixed using a 3-step zigzag stitch.
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