How To Apply Bias Tape

If you like sewing, sooner or later you will have to deal with the “drama” of apply bias tape because for many of us this is exactly what it is about: a real drama!

After spending sleepless nights sewing and unstitching hems finished with bias tape here are some tips to solve this puzzle in the best way.

I’ll tell you right away that, as often happens in sewing, only practice will perfect yours finishing work with bias.

I will also show you my personal system of applying the bias tape, developed when I still couldn’t have special feet for the sewing machine.

Types of bias

The bias tape is a fabric ribbon that is used to finish any type of hem on clothing, but also to finish the edges of bibs, towels, pot holders, etc.

Its function is double: give support to the hems as in the case of clothing or introduce a purely aesthetic note in a sewing project, as happens with kitchen sets, bathroom sets or baby sets, for newborns or for nursery.

In the first case, there are plain-coloured cotton bias tapes on the market that can be matched to the color of the fabric used.

The simple bias tapes adapt to each use, while the double bias tape (i.e. with double fold) are used to finish the hems of transparent dresses.

If the bias tape is also used for decorative purposes, there are many patterned ribbons on the market. If, however, you want a personalized bias tape, you can make the tape you need yourself, and without wasting fabric.

Attach the bias tape with the adjustable bias tape foot

The more experienced, and equipped with every accessory, will know that today it is very easy to apply the bias tape thanks to the appropriate bias foot adjustable suitable for your sewing machine.

There are some universal types, which adapt to every type of machine and which allow you to apply folded bias tape up to 4cm wide like what you see in the picture.

The video below shows you how to use it. It’s actually very simple. You take the ribbon, fold it in half and insert it into the plastic guide, then fit the foot under the machine needle.

The Bias foot allows, with two screws, to adjust the width of the bias folded, so that the bias tape does not move during sewing, and of also adjust the position of the stitching compared to the internal edge of the bias tape (usually it is sewn 2-3mm from the internal edge).

This type of foot does not cost much and is also available online. The universal type adapts to every type of sewing machine, but it is always better to first find out from your trusted retailer or in any case ask which machines the presser foot you are going to buy can be mounted on.

With this foot you can apply both pre-packaged bias tapes and those prepared by us at home.

Apply the bias tape with the Gnoato bias tape

A valid alternative to the adjustable bias presser foot is the Gnoato bias cutter which allows you to even apply one as a bias simple strip of cloth as you can see in the video below and in the photo.

The Gnoato bias cutter it is applied to the machine by screwing it directly onto the plate. Fits all sewing machines including the Bernina.

It is easy to use: it is screwed onto the work surface of the machine, near the standard foot that is mounted for sewing, a strip of fabric is cut and inserted into the flat slot of the bias tape as you can see in the video and following the metal guide, it is applied the bias. The flat slot can be of different widths. Then purchase the bias tape maker of the bias size you use most. The one in the photo has a flat opening of 4cm and makes a finished bias tape that measures 12mm.

With the Gnoato bias tape maker, which can also be purchased online at a cost of around €35, you will have solved every problem regarding the application of the bias tape because it allows you to conveniently finish bibs, towels or other types of projects starting from a simple strip of fabric or a pre-made ribbon that is as wide as the opening of the purchased foot.

Attach the bias tape with the standard presser foot on your sewing machine

Long live mechanics and technology, but if you are a beginner with the sewing machine and are not equipped with all the accessories, how do you apply the bias tape using only the standard foot?

Here then is one tutorial for applying bias tape simple and effective .

First of all, on the market you can find bias tapes with two types of folds on the back, like the ones you see in the picture. When you make the bias at home, once the ribbon is ironed, you will get internal folds like the ones in the photo.

If the internal folds of the bias tape are equal to half the length of the tape (like the white bias tape in the photo) then make it match the edge to be finished, but if the folds are shorter (like the patterned bias tape) then proceed in this way: fold the tape in half and check the measurement, then mark this measurement on the edge of the project to be finished (wrong side), using a fabric pen.

Now open the bias tape and match the line of a fold of the bias tape with the marked point. If, however, the bias tape is of the white type, open it and match the edge of the open bias tape with the edge to be finished. Pin the bias tape, thus arranged, along the entire edge. This should be done on the wrong side of the project (even though the photo shows it on the right side!).

Attention: at the starting point, when you apply the bias tape, the tape must be folded vertically on itself towards you.

Once you’ve pinned all of the bias open, place your project under the standard presser foot on your machine and sew right across the fold line as shown in the photo.

At this point, having removed the pins, fold the bias tape towards the outside of the edge to be finished and give it a blow with the iron. Fold the bias tape to the back and secure the fold with tweezers.

Attention: on the back (which is the right side of the project) the bias tape must cover the seam made earlier.

At this point, with the machine and with no special foot other than the standard one you normally use, sew the bias keeping about 3mm from the internal edge as shown in the photo.

If everything goes well, you will have a regular seam on the right side and a corresponding one on the reverse side.

Here it is!! Bias is as beautiful as it is applied!

How are the feet used?

In this tutorial we have seen the use of some presser feet.

There are over 50 different types of presser feet and accessories that you can use to expand the functions of your sewing machine.